
When we first opened Monsoon in the Shilin Night Market area, I thought I already knew what a night market was. I’d visited them countless times as a newbie to Taiwan, marveling at the competing aromas, vibrant lights, and buzzing energy. But the 3 years, being embedded in the heart of one of Taipei’s most iconic markets transformed my understanding. Operating a vegan dining experience in this space was a unique challenge and privilege - one that allowed me to truly experience the symbiotic relationship between the market’s culture and its community.

Night markets in Taiwan are much more than a collection of food stalls and vendors. They are microcosms of Taiwanese life, blending commerce, culture, and community into a single space. As the 2012 study by Kuo, Chung, and Kuo highlights, night markets serve as a “unique cultural characteristic of people’s nightlife,” offering a mix of leisure, shopping, and local cuisine. They are also essential to the socio-economic fabric of Taiwan, providing employment and fostering small-scale entrepreneurship.

Evolution of Night Markets
Taiwan’s night markets trace their origins to temple fairs and county markets. Over time, these spaces evolved, adapting to urbanization and transportation developments. The Shilin Night Market, for example, originally developed near a wharf on the Keelung River, serving as a hub for agricultural trade. The market later expanded in front of Shilin Cixian Temple, which played a central role in the area’s growth as a commercial and cultural center. By the late 20th century, night markets had become a phenomenon, popular not only for their food but also for their vibrant atmospheres and unique merchandise offerings.

At their core, night markets reflect Taiwan’s adaptability and creativity. As noted in the research paper "To Explore Taiwanese Night Markets Culture and Tourism Experience and Behaviour", these markets cater to a wide range of motivations. Local visitors seek the comfort of cheap, delicious food and familiar surroundings, while tourists are drawn to the vibrant cultural immersion. The mix of traditional snacks, creative innovation, and entertainment creates a information overload for the senses.

Culture of Eating and Walking
One of the most striking aspects of Taiwan’s night markets is the culture of eating while walking. This informal dining style is as practical as it is enjoyable. In a space as crowded as Shilin, where foot traffic flows nonstop, the convenience of portable foods is undeniable. But more than that, it’s a cultural ritual. Sharing bites of stinky tofu, grilled squid, or peanut ice cream rolls with friends and family while navigating the aisles, streets and alleyways fosters connection and camaraderie.

Ultimately, this "walking-and-eating" 邊走邊吃 culture is a win-win for both vendors and customers. Each customer can only buy as much they can carry, so they purchase a snack here, start eating, and then move on to buy something else, creating a continuous cycle of engagement. This dynamic encourages exploration and ensures no single stall dominates, allowing smaller vendors to thrive alongside more established ones. Customers might play a game or two before indulging in another bite, extending their stay and interactions in the market. Even those on errands, tasked with bringing to-go meals to hungry folks waiting back home, contribute to this bustling environment too. They navigate multiple stalls to complete their orders (on scooters oft times)!
Vendors benefit from this dining behavior tremendously. It’s not just food stalls that profit—shops selling clothing, accessories, sportswear, you name it, all benefit from the increased foot traffic, as eating while walking, naturally leads to browsing.
As residents of Shilin, we often participated in this ritual ourselves, before or after work hours. During busy evenings at Monsoon, one of us would dash across to grab a to-go snack from one of the stalls or sometimes even a bento of vegetables and rice from the 自助餐 buffet shops. These exchanges weren’t just about sustenance; they were acts of community.
Collaboration among vendors was common. We've even partnered with nearby stalls to create fusion dishes - pairing our vegan entrees with traditional night market flavors to craft something uniquely Taiwanese yet aligned with our brand.
Hub for Ideas
Night markets are also incubators for entrepreneurship. They offer a low-risk entry point for small businesses, allowing vendors to test products and refine their offerings based on direct customer feedback. According to the study, the eight defining characteristics of night markets include attraction, continuity, and authenticity—qualities that make them ideal for businesses seeking visibility and growth.

Monsoon, however, was at first a little out of place as we were a sit-down dining experience. We operated as "reservations only" since we were a two-person team and did not accommodate walk-ins. Interestingly, 50% of our clientele weren’t typical night market dwellers. Many of our customers were vegan or vegetarian, groups that often lack a strong affinity for night markets, though I’ve spotted some strolling through Shilin after dinner. Most of our guests were curious about why we chose a location right above a 7-Eleven and a hairdresser in the heart of the night market. Ultimately, our Shilin location reflected the Monsoon brand’s DNA: a call to look closely and not judge a book by its cover because you might find a gem.
While we may have seemed unconventional at the start in Shilin, we were undoubtedly influenced by the bustling culture and flavors surrounding us. Some of our courses incorporated elements of the night market—like "bottled smoke," designed to evoke the aromas of the market, or our fire-blasted persimmons on skewers, inspired by the grilled skewers sold across the street.
The Role of Tourism
Tourists are integral to the night market ecosystem. They bring fresh energy and a willingness to explore, often seeking out the “must-try” items featured in travel guides and YouTube videos. Recently TV series like King of Night Market and the Taipei Nightmarket Festival have further amplified the global appeal of these spaces, showcasing the creativity and passion of Taiwanese vendors.

Shilin Night Market, in particular, is a hotspot for international visitors. Its convenient location between Jiantan and Shilin MRT stops plus a reputation for diverse delicious offerings make it a favorite. For tourists, the market is a sensory playground, where the unfamiliar becomes exciting. The sounds of hawkers, the sizzling of grills, and the kaleidoscope of colors create a vibrant tapestry of experiences and that necessary IG post.
Challenges and Opportunities
While night markets are beloved cultural landmarks, they also face challenges. Overcrowding, waste management, and rising competition have prompted discussions about sustainability and modernization. The study’s suggestions—such as increasing public restrooms, improving waste disposal, and enhancing transportation—are steps toward ensuring that night markets remain accessible and enjoyable for future generations. The Nanjichang Nightmarket is a good benchmark for how well organized and convenient should all be!
For vendors, these challenges are opportunities for innovation. At Monsoon, we focused on sustainability, using sourcing ingredients and groceries at the "day version" of Shilin - an actual farmers market from dawn to noon!
POV
After five years in Taiwan and three years at Shilin Night Market, I’ve come to appreciate the profound role the night market plays in Taiwanese culture. They are not just places to eat and shop but also vibrant social arenas where traditions are preserved, relationships are forged, and memories are made.
Leaving Shilin Night Market was bittersweet. While we’ve moved on to new endeavors, the lessons learned and connections made in those bustling aisles continue to shape Monsoon’s identity. Our time there was a testament to the power of community and the enduring allure of Taiwan’s night markets.

As I reflect on this journey, I’m reminded of a phrase often used to describe Taiwanese culture: 小而強大 “small but mighty.” It’s a fitting description for the night markets that define this island nation’s evenings. They are (maybe not so) small in scale but immense in impact—a true embodiment of Taiwan’s spirit.

…as for my favorite night market!
For me it’s the Nanjichang Night Market followed by Yen San in the Dadaocheng area. To me they represent what Taiwanese love to eat and getting to experience what they love, is a step to understanding and accepting a new culture, one that is incredibly original and unique. Oh and the food some of the best I've eaten in the world!
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Phil

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